So, against better judgement, we stayed two nights in the fabulous, luxurious Gryf hotel at the centre of Szczecin. We didn't sleep too badly overall, despite orange light pouring in through the net curtains, and being woken up at one point by our light fitting rattling from people walking around upstairs, I don't think they were walking particularly heavily but the tiniest movement would make the whole place shake.
A visit to the tourist office sorted us out with maps and secured us a room at the Arbet hotel, cheaper at 100zl and looking a little less... well... disgusting. A bit further out of town, but not a problem. This one lived up to its photograph, it's clean, non-rattly and even has curtains (although they're a bit thin) and I wasn't afraid to take a shower. Unfortunately we could only have the room for one night, apparently there's some kind of city celebration happening after that so everywhere's full.
So we walked into town for dinner and ended up at the Brama Jazz Cafe, located under the Royal Gate. If you ever go to Szczecin, this place is well worth a visit. Main meals 15-20zl and absolutely fantastic. I had fettucine with spinach, aubergine and garlic - really tasty and far more than I could manage, although dgym kindly hoovered up the leftovers after his chicken with spinach and gorgonzola sauce, which was also delicious. They have wifi there too, although unfortunately we didn't have our laptops on us.
Tomorrow, we're leaving Szczecin and heading for the coast to see what Poland's like outside of the city.
(PS: We couldn't resist - we have ended up back at the cafe for breakfast, with laptops! :)